Corfu is one of the most popular destinations in Greece for British holidaymakers, with direct flights from numerous major UK airports. The island is known for its lush green scenery and pristine beaches, but parts of it also have a reputation for being jam-packed with tourist crowds and noisy pubs.
If you want to escape to a quieter part of the island, head north. On the north-eastern tip of Corfu lies Kassiopi, a fishing village turned low-key resort with pretty beaches dotted along its coastline where I was lucky enough to go on a family holiday. Unlike the island’s more developed holiday hubs, Kassiopi is still somewhat of a working harbour, where colourful boats bob against the quay and tavernas spill out onto the waterfront.
We stayed near this beautiful harbour in a villa overlooking the Ionian Sea, with views of Albania’s rugged mountains.
I was pleasantly surprised by Kassiopi. First, it has some breathtaking beaches with crystal-clear water. The beaches are small and pebbled rather than sweeping stretches of sand, but they are no less beautiful — often framed by olive trees.
A short stroll from the harbour will take you on a cliffside walk to three main beaches: Bataria, Kanoni, and Pipitos. These pebbled coves are lapped by crystal-clear waters that are perfect for snorkelling. Head a little further and you’ll find Avlaki Beach, a longer, breezier stretch popular with sailors and windsurfers.
One of our favourite activities was renting a boat — which you can drive yourself — and taking it along the coastline to discover hidden coves and secluded beaches. We stopped off for dips and snorkelling, though you need to be careful not to veer into Albanian waters.
You can also join boat tours to destinations such as Paxos or Corfu Town, and there are plenty of day trips along the coast that include swimming, snorkelling, and a BBQ lunch.
Meanwhile, the fishing harbour itself is the best place for food in Kassiopi. Tavernas along the waterfront serve freshly caught fish, hearty souvlaki, and beef stifado. Think calamari, octopus, grilled sardines, and plenty of taramasalata with pita bread.
Behind the waterfront, the village streets are a tangle of whitewashed houses, including little shops selling beachwear and souvenirs. For those after more energy, there are bars tucked behind the main square that buzz late into the night, though the mood rarely strays into rowdy.
It is livelier here than in Corfu’s sleepier coves, but not overwhelmingly so. Kassiopi mainly attracts international tourists including families, couples, and younger travellers looking for atmosphere without the heavy crowds of the island’s west coast resorts.
For history lovers, Kassiopi’s most striking landmark is the ruins of its Byzantine castle, perched on the hill above town. While little more than crumbling walls remain, the short climb rewards you with sweeping views over the village, the sea, and the Albanian coast beyond.
You can also visit the Greek Orthodox Church of Panagia Kassopitra in the village centre, built on the site of an ancient temple to Zeus.
Corfu is a great place to visit in the shoulder seasons, when things are quieter but the weather is still warm. In September, average temperatures hover around 28°C, and in October around 24°C.
Direct flights to Corfu operate from major UK airports including London (Gatwick, Heathrow, Luton, Stansted), Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Liverpool, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Newcastle.
Kassiopi is a one-hour drive from Corfu Airport and 45 minutes on the bus from Corfu Town.
Private transfers are available from the airport as well as car hire.
Buses also run directly from Corfu Airport to Kassiopi.
